Description
Next steps
I covered the installation of two 10-inch speakers in the rear arm rests in the Jan/Feb Riview when the rear arm rests were reupholstered. In this issue I will discuss the installation of speakers in the front, under the dash pad and in the rear behind the chrome grille. In the next issue I will describe how I hid the new system in the glove box, while keeping the factory radio for an original appearance. In a following issue when I address restoration of the trunk I will include the installation of the optional subwoofer and power amplifier.
It is important that you initially run cables for the speakers and mark them accordingly. The easiest way is to place the cables under the floor carpet on the passenger side to the rear. If you later want to install a subwoofer with power amplifier, also continue these cables to the trunk. Soldering or clipping plugs to the cables later makes connecting the speakers much easier.
I purchased a pair of “CRUNCH Definition Coax DSX-572 5×7 inch” speakers for both front and rear.
I started with the rear speaker, which is behind the chrome cover, located between the rear seats. I immediately discovered that the mounting holes on the new speakers did not match the original holes in the chrome cover. I realized that I needed to create a mounting plate. I cut a 4-5mm thick birch board to fit the shape of the cover, to accommodate the 5×7 inch speaker. I marked the locations of the four holes in the cover onto the mounting plate and drilled the holes. Then, I cut an oval hole on the plate for the speaker using a jigsaw (Fig. 1). I marked the mounting holes of the speaker on to the wooden plate and drilled new holes. I painted the wooden plate black (Fig. 2). The speaker was fastened to the wooden plate with screws and nuts (Fig. 3) and the mounting plate to the chrome cover (Fig. 4 & 5). Before replacing the chrome cover between the seats, make sure that the routed cables are plugged into the speaker in the correct polarity.
In attaching the front speaker to the dash pad speaker frame, I discovered that the width of the speaker was wider, and the mounting holes did not match. As I did with the rear speaker I created a mounting plate from a 4-5mm thick birch board. I could again attach the speaker to the mounting plate, which would fit better within the width of the dash pad’s grille. As before mark and drill the holes to fit the plate onto the speaker frame and then cut out the oval opening for the speaker. (Fig. 6). The plastic lip for the ventilation must also be cut so the speaker can be attached. To do this, cut out approx. 15cm from the rubber lip with a flex saw. Then flex in height by 5mm (Fig. 7). Make sure that a small angle remains so that the rubber part can be soldered or glued on again (Fig. 8). Paint the mounting plate as you did for the rear (Fig. 9). I saw that I would only able to attach the plate to the frame with two screws on the far ends. So, to dampen vibrations I glued a thin rubber mat between the speaker and the plate before I attached the plate to the frame (Fig. 10). Before attaching the frame to the dash pad pay attention to polarity! (Fig. 11)
IN THE NEXT ISSUE, I’ll discuss installation of audio system in the glove box.
