Whether you cut and prepared your own veneer as I did, or purchased an aftermarket kit, now it’s time to apply the veneer to the trim pieces. It is not witchcraft as long as you pay attention to a few small details and use the correct material for gluing.
As we covered in Part 1, each trim piece was removed from the car and the old veneer was carefully stripped off. It is very important that the trim pieces are completely cleaned of all impurities, glue residue and dust (Fig. 6). During the process of removing the old veneer, residue is always left behind. It must be removed with acetone, strong solvents or sanding (Fig. 7). This is absolutely necessary. If not done, the glue will gradually dissolve from solar radiation or high temperatures. That would be a disaster, making it necessary to remove the veneer for cleaning and repeating the process. It’s best to do everything correctly right from the start!
When applying the glue, be sure you cover every surface as evenly as possible with a spatula or, even better, with a contact spray. Be sure to press the veneer as tightly as possible to ensure that all surfaces, including corners, are attached (Fig 8). I recommend placing weights on it overnight, using sandbags or something similar.
The stylized “R” emblems on the door panels are secured to the panel with three pins. To remove the emblems, sand the solder joints from the back and gently push out. Once the veneer has been glued to the panel and dried, pierce it gently through the holes from the back, enabling the emblems to be replaced correctly (Fig 9). To secure, put a drop of epoxy on each pin, or use solder. To replace the frames around the door and rear seat panels, just reverse the instructions included in Part 1 (Fig 10).